Until a few decades ago, for us Europeans, Californian wine was just one thing: Zinfandel and Cabernet for a few francs, on supermarket shelves. Lots of alcohol, lots of fruit, little personality. Everyday New World wine, nothing more. Then something happened.

The turning point

The music changes thanks to those who looked straight at Europe. Robert Mondavi, between the Sixties and Seventies, brought French barriques and Bordeaux techniques to Napa, and then created Opus One with Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Mouton. In 1976 came the Judgment of Paris, a blind tasting with French judges: Chateau Montelena's Chardonnay and Stag's Leap's Cabernet beat the great French wines on their own turf. From there, European clones, French consultants, Grand Cru ambitions. California stopped copying and started competing.

Where quality is born today

In the North Coast, Napa Valley for great Cabernets and Sonoma for characterful Pinot Noir and Zinfandel. In the Central Coast, Paso Robles, Monterey, and especially Santa Barbara County, with fresh, mineral, elegant Chardonnays. And then Lodi and the Sierra Foothills, for Zinfandels from old vines. Few areas, world-class level.

My honest advice

I tell you as I would tell a friend. Between 10 and 20 francs, you won't find quality California: these are still volume wines. From 40 francs upwards, up to the crazy prices of Opus One and Screaming Eagle, everything changes: wines comparable to the best in Europe. Premium California today has nothing to envy anyone. You just need to know where to look.

Come and discover it. With Coravin, a great Californian can be tasted even just by the glass. Coravin Wine Bar, Via Carlo Maderno 23, Lugano. Cheers!