For decades, books, Sommeliers, and bar stories have repeated the same tale: Syrah comes from Persia, from the city of Shiraz, perhaps brought by the Crusaders. A beautiful story. Too bad it is false. And I love myths to debunk.

The case solved by DNA

In the late nineties, genetic analyses closed the issue: Syrah was born in southeastern France, in the Rh么ne Valley, from a natural cross between two almost unknown grape varieties, Dureza and Mondeuse Blanche. Its historical homeland is Hermitage, with steep terraced vineyards along the river. In short, a journey from Persia that no one ever made.

A globe-trotter with two names

In the northern Rh么ne, it is king: Hermitage, C么te-R么tie, Cornas. Further south, it joins forces with Grenache and Mourv猫dre. Then it found a second home in Australia, where it is called Shiraz and becomes more powerful, fruity, and warm. Same grape, two personalities: elegant and spicy in France, exuberant on the other side of the world. Today you can also find it in South Africa, California, Chile, and Italy, especially in Sicily and Tuscany.

In the glass

Intense ruby, almost impenetrable when young. On the nose, the signature is black pepper, as if someone had ground it directly into the glass. Then violet, blackberry, licorice, and in the more rustic versions, a smoky or gamey note. In the mouth, present but silky tannins and good freshness. A wine that makes itself noticed, much like certain guests at dinners.

The Syrah by Salvatore Tamburello

Here I close with a label I am fond of. The Syrah by Salvatore Tamburello is unfiltered, unclarified, unstabilized. Translated: in the cellar, they touch it as little as possible. The result is a living wine, perhaps with a veil of cloudiness or some harmless crystals at the bottom, which can change a bit from bottle to bottle. Like an artisan who never makes two identical pieces. If you are looking for an unadulterated Syrah, this is your glass.

Come taste it. We pour Tamburello鈥檚 Syrah by the glass with the Coravin. Coravin Wine Bar, Via Carlo Maderno 23, Lugano. Cheers!