There is a phrase I often hear at the bar: "Wine gives me a headache, it's the sulfites' fault." I understand the suspicion; the label is there on the bottle and looks like a warning. But it's worth looking at them closely, because sulfites are one of the most persistent myths in the entire wine world.

What they are

We are mainly talking about sulfur dioxide. In the cellar, it has two precious tasks: it protects the wine from oxygen, which would steal its color, aromas, and freshness, and it blocks unwanted bacteria and yeasts that would turn it into vinegar. And here is the first surprise: humans don't just add them. Yeasts, while fermenting, produce some on their own. So all wines contain sulfites, even natural ones.

Why it says so on the label

It is a legal requirement: above 10 milligrams per liter, you must write "contains sulfites," even if they are only those produced by yeasts. It is a matter of transparency, because they are considered a possible allergen.

And the headache?

True sensitivity to sulfites exists, but it is rare and mainly affects asthmatic people, with symptoms quite different from a simple headache. That one, almost always, has other culprits: alcohol itself, dehydration, amines like histamine, tannins. A detail that surprises many: whites and sweet wines usually have more sulfites than reds, because they are more delicate.

If you want to drink fewer

Organic wines have lower limits than conventional ones, and some natural producers work with minimal quantities, using very healthy grapes and great care in the cellar. The term "no added sulfites" means that only those born naturally during fermentation are present. My advice remains simple: drink in moderation, alternate with water, eat something. And if you have a real doubt, ask your doctor, not the Sommelier.

Come and taste without worries. By the glass, with Coravin, you can try even just one glass of an organic or natural wine. Coravin Wine Bar, Via Carlo Maderno 23, Lugano. Cheers!