Nebbiolo is one of the grape varieties I love talking about the most. Because it is noble, certainly, but above all because it is full of contradictions. And because, from here, we can almost see its history from the window: Valtellina is just around the corner.

A name that comes from the fog

Almost certainly the name is linked to the fog. For some, due to the bloom, that opaque patina on ripe berries that looks like fog. For others, due to the late harvest, in late October, when the hills are already wrapped in mist. The first written mention is from 1268, in Piedmont. But also in Valtellina, where it is called Chiavennasca, traces date back to the sixteenth century.

A grape variety with many names

The undisputed homeland is the Langhe and Roero. But just move a little and the name and character change. In the hills between Novara and Vercelli it is called Spanna and produces very fine wines in Gattinara, Ghemme, and Boca. In Valtellina it is Chiavennasca, slimmer and more vertical thanks to the alpine climate. In Valle d'Aosta it is Picotendro. It is so sensitive to the soil that it changes from one hill to another, even just a few hundred meters apart.

The great wines

Barolo, the "king of wines," for structure and longevity. Barbaresco, nearby, often more elegant and less austere. Nebbiolo d'Alba and Langhe Nebbiolo, more accessible and ready sooner. Gattinara and Ghemme, less famous but of great finesse. And for those who want mountain Nebbiolo, Sassella, a historic sub-zone of Valtellina Superiore: more austere and mineral than its Piedmontese cousins.

In the glass, the deception

It has a light color, almost like Pinot Noir, which deceives you: in the mouth it is one of the most tannic and acidic grape varieties that exist. On the nose, wilted rose, cherry, red fruits, and with age, licorice, tobacco, tar. It needs time: great Nebbiolos give their best after ten or twenty years. And please, give it a wide glass. In a small glass, you lose half of it.

Come and taste it. A Barolo by the glass, without opening the whole bottle, is the beauty of Coravin. Coravin Wine Bar, Via Carlo Maderno 23, Lugano. Cheers!